Oeufs en Cocotte with Tomatoes and Spinach

I have seen many versions of baked eggs over the years and this one is probably similar to most.  Although, I prefer to bake my eggs in a stew of vegetables versus a cream mixture.

I like this dish because:

• it makes for a nice presentation for entertaining
• it is easy to execute
• so much can be prepared ahead
• it has a short finish
• it is forgiving in what ingredients to use and how much
• it is a great way to use up leftovers
• the choices of garnishes are endless

Oeufs en Cocotte with Tomatoes and Spinach
Inspired by many
Serves 4

INGREDIENTS
4 eggs, room temperature
1 cooking onion, diced
1 garlic, minced
1/8 teaspoon chili flakes
8 small tomatoes, chopped
5 ounces spinach, stemmed
salt and pepper
4 tablespoons Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated

GARNISH
1/2 avocado, whipped
1 slice of bacon, crumbled
4 chives, finely cut

Heat oven to 400ºF.

Sauté onions and garlic in a medium frying pan.  Once they have softened, add tomatoes and heat them through until they soften.  Add the spinach to the tomato mixture and heat slowly until the spinach wilts.  At this point the stew can be cooled and refrigerated if using the next day.  Reheat the stew gently before continuing.

Butter four 1/2-cup ramekins. Divide the warm stew among the 4 ramekins and create a deep well in each.  Crack one room temperature egg into each well.  Season the egg with salt and pepper.  Top with grated cheese.  Place the ramekins on a baking sheet and place on the middle rack in the oven.

Look at the eggs after 6 to 7 minutes. You want the egg white to be cooked and the yolk to remain runny.  Giving the baking sheet a bit of a jiggle will help to gauge doneness and judge how much extra time is needed.  The time is affected by the warmth of the stew, the temperature and size of the egg. It could take up to 10 minutes. Take a look at them after each minute.

When you remove the baked eggs from the oven, let them stand for a minute before garnishing with the avocado whip, bacon crumble and chives.

Beech St. Burger - Juicy!

Beech St. Burger is a small eatery in Little Italy next door to Greco Lean and Fit Beech St. location.  Might you feel a little guilty chowing down on a juicy burger, knowing you could be better off next door? You might.

The Beech St. Burger location replaces the short lived Danni Panini which before that was the Nicholas Coffee Shop. Can they make a go of it?  Their timing is right.  If you're going to open a burger shop, do it when the smell of BBQ's permeate us as the warmer days of summer move in.

Under Greco's shadow, I was frugal in my choice. I picked the smaller, single patty Baby Burger.  No cheese. No bacon. Of course, I loaded up on the salad toppings - lettuce, tomato, onion, hot peppers, pickles, plus small dabs of ketchup, mustard, relish and mayo. All for $6. I also, restrained with a more than ample small fry for $2.50. No fizzy drink.

The burger was juicy and flavourful - advertised as "Fresh Local Beef Handmade Patties". Although my bun looked a bit beat up, it was plenty fresh. Just a victim of a tight wrap.  A small detail but I favour the sesame bun. I loved the "Fresh Cut Fries" as well.  Next time I would happily share the spilling box with a friend.

Seating is probably a very tight twenty. And the open grilling and frying area is part of that ambiance.

The experience reminded me of visits to the nearby Hintonburger on Wellington Street. Making me wonder if their overflow of burger popularity might have fans venturing the 2 kms/4 minute drive to Beech St.

Burger season is here and so is Beech St. Burger.

* UPDATE:  Before you head out to Beech St. Burger, check out their super cool ad. *

Beech St. Burger
40 Beech Street
Ottawa, Ontario
613.237.1641
Website: www.beechstburger.com
Facebook: Beech St. Burger
Twitter: @BeechStBurger

Sun to Thurs: 11 am - 9 pm
Fri and Sat: 11 am - 11 pm

Belgian Waffles Mille-feuille For Mother's Day Brunch

My mother took great pleasure in showing her love for her family by serving well prepared homemade food.

Waffles were always on the menu when her grandchildren came for weekend visits.

I inherited her waffle machine some 8 years ago. Every time I use it I think of her.

BELGIAN WAFFLES MILLE-FEUILLE
Yields: 16 waffles 

Ingredients:
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 eggs, separated
2 cups milk
4 tablespoons melted butter 

Garnishes
Raspberries
Banana slices
Whipped cream
Pure Maple Syrup
michaelsdolce™ Raspberry Chocolate Jam

Method:
Sift flour, baking powder, sugar and salt into bowl.

Separate eggs and whip egg whites until stiff.  Beat yolks in a separate bowl. Add the milk to the egg yolks and beat together.

Add the wet mixture to the dry mixture, slowly beating until perfectly smooth. Add the melted butter and combine. Then fold in the egg whites.

Use the waffle maker as directed.

Notes:
My machine is the Philips Deluxe Wafflemaker HL5360. I cook my waffles for 5 to 6 minutes depending on if I am serving them right away or storing them in the freezer.

When I serve them right away, I like them to be a bit crispy. If I am freezing them, I want to allow for a bit of cooking when they are being warmed (and crisped) in the toaster.

Kale, Grilled Vegetables and Goat Cheese Quiche

One of my most favourite cooking experiences is the demand for creativity when the fridge receives an audit and the leftovers get evicted.  Out of respect for this food, we want to use it and use it well. However, its due date is now.

Last night's culprits included:

• 1/2 bag of Roots and Shoots Farm's young kale, purchased at the Ottawa Farmers' Market on Sunday. Although exceptionally fresh still, I have another bag on hand.  We are (over)loaded in kale.
• leftover grilled vegetables from dinner the night before (red and yellow pepper, green zucchini, an onion and a handful of mushrooms were grilled in the BBQ basket with olive oil, salt and pepper.)
• 1 cup of caramelized onions from two nights before.  I need sautéed onions for my pasta dish. I realized after they were sweated off and caramelized that I had way too many for my pasta dish so I siphoned off a pile.
• 1/2 round of soft ripened goat cheese, leftover from my March book club meeting 6 weeks ago.  It was still in great shape but I was pushing my luck.
• 10 oven-roasted tomato halves
• 1 cup of homo milk.  Our son was home from university. He is thin, thin, thin and insists on drinking high fat milk. Because he can.  The expiry date for the last dregs of milk was May 9. It has been sitting there since he left a week ago.

I was quick to pick quiche despite the warm weather.  I wanted comfort food.  As it turns out, I was also down to the last bits of lard to use in the pastry. The fridge really was getting lighter!

Goat cheese can be a strong cheese to use in cooking, 6 ounces is plenty for a 9"quiche. The grilled vegetables, especially the red peppers and mushrooms, helped to give it balance.

Sometimes I make a quiche with just 3 eggs for the 1 1/2 of milk and cream.  But because my vegetables were on the juicy side, I added an extra egg for firmness.

I used the kale raw.  Had I steamed it first, I may have been able to extract some of its liquid by wringing it out, much like I do with spinach - although it doesn't hold as much water as spinach. I went the lazy way instead this time since everything else was ready to go.

If you want to do a 'kitchen eviction' quiche, you just need to keep in mind flavours that go well together. Fill the pie shell full up with your favourites. The egg mixture usually remains constant - 3 or 4 eggs to 1 1/2 cup rich milk, plus seasonings.  It easily fills into the nooks and crannies.  Cheese is great, just don't overdue it.

Here is a little secret about quiche. It is better the next day.  I like to eat it cold, right from the fridge.

If that had been your list of ingredients for a Foodie Face-Off, what would you have made?

Kale, Grilled Vegetables and Goat Cheese Quiche
Servings: 6

1 9-inch pie shell * see pastry recipe below (use half)
1 cup of caramelized onion (may include one minced garlic clove)

2 cups fresh young kale, stemmed and rough chopped
1 1/2 cups grilled vegetables (green zucchini, red and yellow pepper, mushrooms)
10 oven-roasted tomato slices
6 oz Chevrita (A soft cheese made from 100% goat's milk), thin wedges (12 - 15)
4 Eggs
1/2 cup cream (10%)
1 cup Milk
1/2 tsp Salt
1/4 tsp Black Pepper
1/2 tsp Dry Mustard
1 pinch Cayenne Pepper

Spread caramelized onion over the bottom of pricked, unbaked pie shell. Cover with roughly chopped kale. Cover with the grilled vegetable mix.  Lay on the tomato slices and goat cheese in a pattern.

Beat the egg and whisk in the milk and cream.  Then whisk in the salt, pepper, dry mustard and cayenne pepper.

Bake at 375ºF for 45 minutes, till golden brown and bubbly and the egg has set. Consider covering it loosely with tin foil in the last 10 minutes if it has full colour but is not fully set.

----

Pastry:
2 cups all-purpose flour (I use 5 Roses)
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup lard (I use Tenderflake)
1/4 cup water

Sift flour and salt together in a bowl.

Remove 1/3 cup of this mixture and place it in a small bowl or cup.

Stir water into it to form a smooth paste. (I usually add the water to this small bowl of flour after I have cut in the lard, in order to keep it moist.)

Cut lard into the flour mixture in the first bowl with a pastry blender until the grain is the size of small peas. It works best when the lard is still chilled and not fully at room temperature.

Stir the flour paste into the dough. Work it with your hand until well incorporated and the dough forms a ball. It is important not to over work the dough or it will become tough.

Wrap the pastry in plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes.

This recipe makes enough dough for a double crust pie.

LCBO Food & Drink Magazine - Early Summer Issue 2013

I am feasting on the Early Summer issue of LCBO's Food & Drink magazine just released last Wednesday. James Tse's eye-catching cover shot of Victoria Walsh's lamb chops, asparagus and tzatziki gives you a hint that this issue is chocked full of straight forward and flavour packed dishes.

Everybody must be talking about Christopher St. Onge's stunning Lemon Poppyseed Chiffon Cake with Candied Citrus and Ricotta Filling in Birthday Confections. Birthdays, yes, but as the article suggests, these creations say 'celebration', whether a graduation, anniversary, wedding or baby shower. Rolled fondant is very popular and the polka dot cake is for those wanting a show.

Cocktails are big, big, big this year so don't miss the tutorial by James Chatto, A Guide To Garnishing. At a minimum, at least learn how to do the twist! I for one, love it when my Caesar comes with a mini salad. So if you are serving me, bring on the pickled green bean, pickled garlic scape, celery and bacon.

I try to resist being drawn in by Brenda Morrison's Must Haves. This time she was very tricky.  First the Pin Table designed by Scandinavian designer, Andreas Engesvik. It comes in white, black, yellow, neo red and neo green.  I couldn't find it at Bergo Designs but I did see them on Amazon.  Then there are the Two's Company String Lights. I wondered if I could hang them from my fence. Swinging from the trees could be risky business with an open flame and a bit of breeze.

Other torn pages from this issue:

• Sherry-Glazed Mushroom Tart with Peppery Salad (From A Splash of Sherry by Jennifer Crinion)
• Radish & Roasted Beet Salad and Strawberry Basil Balsamic Jam (From Garden Delights by Jennifer MacKenzie)
• Chipotle Crab on Croissant (From Lunch on the Patio by Heather Trim)
• Grilled Lemon-Lime-Ade and Barbecue-Poached Rhubarb Topping (From The May 24 Cookout by Victoria Walsh)
• Grilled Flank Steak with Roasted Tomato Pesto (From Tasting Party At Home by Lucy Waverman and Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic)
• Chilled Strawberries with Hot-Lime White-Chocolate Sauce (From What's Fresh For Dinner by Lucy Waverman)

By now, finding a copy of the Early Summer issue in major centres could prove to be tough. But if you are in the smaller towns, you might have luck. It has been my strategy in the past. So if you find yourself in Merrickville, Pakenham, or Sharbot Lake, pull into the LCBO and try your luck. It is serious stuff to be pilfering the issue from your best friend's powder room magazine stash. That should be your last resort.

Plan ahead: The Summer issue hits the stores in a little over 7 weeks on Wednesday, June 26th.

The Gift of Friendship. Always Say Yes.

When someone calls up and asks if you have coffee, the answer is 'yes'.

Even if you haven't had your shower yet, you're in the middle of laundry, ironing, paying bills, reading a book, making dinner, getting the garbage out, gardening, there is always just a little bit of work to be done....

Never miss the chance for a visit. The dirt and mess can wait.

In the short time it takes for them to land in your driveway, you can get a quick wash, brush your hair and teeth, put on a clean shirt, slap on some lipstick and clear a spot at the table for a couple of cups and few cookies.

When you say 'yes', you're also shouting out, "Hey! You're number one."

Treasure the gift of friendship.

Always say 'yes'.

« I dedicate this post to Helen & Merrill. Wonderful friends who taught me to always say yes »

RECIPE FROM MARTHA STEWART CALLED CHEWY ALMOND ORANGE COOKIES

Lunching at a Mill - Heirloom Café Bistro Is One of Almonte's Valuable Possessions

While foodie-loping in the Valley yesterday, I stopped in Almonte for lunch.  The Heirloom Café Bistro is situated in the ground level of the town's old historic Victoria Woolen Mill, now converted into condominiums. They have been part of the Almonte food scene for three years.

The high ceilings leave open the rustic wood timber beams.  Large windows surround the perimeter of the dining room, allowing full light from all sides. It is an elegant setting for relaxed fine-dining, right down to the white linen tablecloths.

The lunch menu offered a broad selection, plus a few daily specials. My soup being one of them.  Food is locally sourced from such places as:  Back Forty Artisan Cheese, Mariposa Farm, Maplelane Farm, Perth Pork Products, Art-is-in Bakery, Equator Roasters Coffee.

I started with their Daily Market Soup, the Mushroom and Brie Bisque. As the name would suggest, it was quite rich and I appreciated choosing the smaller serving. My wedge of Art-is-in Bakery Dynamite baguette was warmed slightly.

The Warm Beet and Parsnip Salad was amply portioned with the titled root vegetables and used as it's base fresh, fresh tender baby spinach.

Thin threads of red onion were woven through and the dish was crowned with young, bright pea sprouts. There was a tease of  Highland Blue morsels, Back Forty Artisan Cheese's Royal Winter Fair ribbon winner.

As I settled in for slow bites of my salad, I unearthed a mother lode of Perth Pork Products' smokey bacon.

Prices are quite reasonable for the setting and food quality. Service was attentive and helpful. The food exquisitely prepared.

Google Maps says it is 37 minutes door to door. Their brunch menu has caught my eye. I shall return.

PS. I first read about this place from My Macaroni Pie back in July 2011.

Heirloom Café Bistro
7 Mill Street
Almonte, Ontario
613.256.9653
Website: www.heirloomcafe.ca
Facebook: Heirloom Cafe Bistro
Twitter: heirloombistro

Mon: Closed
Tues to Sat: 11 am - 3 pm; 5 - 9 pm
Sun: 11 am - 3 pm

Lunching at a Bakeshop - Art-is-in Bakery Is Heating It Up With Kevin's Clam Chowder

I went to Art-is-in Bakery (or is it Boulangerie?) for bread shopping and ended up staying for lunch. My first time trying their midday fare.

I didn't want a big honking sandwich. Many are priced around $11. More than I cared to spend for lunch and a price that implied 'size'. So I took on Kevin's Clam Chowder.

The KCC, named for owner-baker-chef Kevin Mathieson, was loaded up with clams plus big chunks of potato, celery, carrots and tomato.

The lightly creamed broth was absent of 'glom' and had a bit of spicy heat to warm your cheeks. The kind of lip-smacking taste that leaves you wanting for seconds.

No fish crackers here. Teetering on the plate was a wedge of the famous Art-is-in Boulangerie's Dynamite Cheddar, Chive & Jalapeño baguette.

Plenty of lunch for $6.25.

Art-is-in Bakery
250 City Center Avenue, Bay 114 (access from Scott St., just west of Preston)
Ottawa, Ontario
613.695.1226
Website: www.artisinbakery.com
Facebook: Art-is-in Bakery
Twitter: ArtisinBakery

Mon to Wed: 7 am - 6 pm
Thurs to Fri: 7 am - 7 pm
Sat: 8 am - 5 pm
Sun: 8:30 am - 4 pm (Brunch from 9 am - 1 pm)

Taste The Future - Fundraiser For The Ron Eade Culinary Bursary A Resounding Success

Canapé - Guacamole with Pomegranate Seeds on a Crispy Cucumber Round. Photo credit: Algonquin College

"The launch of Algonquin College's new Ron Eade Culinary Bursary has been a resounding success." Event co-ordinators, Scott Warrick and Mario Ramsay, both chef professors at Algonquin College, are beaming.  Although there is still work to be done on the tally, Chef Warrick has already announced that, "over $20,000 was raised through the fundraiser."

Chefs Scott Warrick and Mario Ramsay, culinary professors at The Algonquin College School of Hospitality and Tourism. Photo Credit: Anne Waters

On March 21 Restaurant International at Algonquin College was filled with the who's who of the culinary food scene here in Ottawa.

Photo credit: Algonquin College

But on this evening, these big names were actually the supporting cast to a dynamic team of soon-to-be graduates coming from Algonquin College's culinary programs.  Led by student, Trish Grey, the graduating class planned and prepared the evening's dinner, under the watchful eye and supporting hand of Chef Mario Ramsay.

Lead student, Trish Grey on the far right. Chef Mario Ramsay to her left. Photo credit: Algonquin College

This was a special evening.  It not only launched the bursary but it was an opportunity to fête local food enthusiast and journalist, Ron Eade, now semi-retired from the Ottawa Citizen where he most recently held the role as Food editor of 14 years.

All in good fun, the reception started with a signature cocktail called 'The Irascible'. I loved it. The Algonquin Bartending students, adding a few trendy touches, cleverly designed a drink that was a deconstructed combination of three classics - Whiskey Sour, Manhattan and the Old-Fashioned. Sour, Bitter, Salty and Sweet, representing the many facets of the evening's guest of honour.

Our lively Emcee Derick Fage from Rogers Daytime Ottawa did a fantastic job at keeping the tempo high and managing the traffic at the podium.

Michel Savard, Dean for the School of Hospitality and Tourism, the second largest culinary school in Canada, told us that 70% of the students in the program need financial support.  He shared many moving stories of students in the program fighting to obtain their basic needs for food and shelter. The cost of books, uniforms and supplies are on top of that. He encouraged us to be generous with our support of tomorrow's chefs today.

As for our fine dining, we received a solid showing from the students. So much so, that Gay Cook took to the podium to rave about her main. Really rave.

Canapé - Sauteéd Shrimp with Spicy Mango Salsa. Photo credit: Algonquin College

Canapé - Smoked Beef Carpaccio on a Garlic Crostini, topped with an Arugula Salad. Photo credit: Algonquin College

Appetizers: Pan-seared scallops with Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Pine Nuts & a Raspberry Gastrique; Duck Confit Wonton Cups with Caramelized Onions, Goat Cheese & Passion Fruit Chutney; Chicken Rillettes served with Crostini and Pickled Veg. Photo credit:  Algonquin College

Salad - Arugula Salad with Spicy Candied Walnuts, Blue Cheese Balls and Strawberry Vinaigrette. Photo credit: Algonquin College

Main - Braised Short Ribs with Crispy Pork Belly on a bed of Red & Gold Beets, Braised Kale & Spicy Pan-fried Polenta. Photo credit: Algonquin College

Dessert - Chocolate Crème Brûlée; Mini Classic NY Cheesecake; Maple Pecan Tart. Photo credit: Algonquin College

With an auction set-up on eBay ten days before the event, the general public was able to participate in the fundraiser's shopping.  A few items were set aside for live auction by surprise auctioneer extraordinaire, Stephen Beckta. With good humour and lots of ribbing, Stephen, much to his own surprise, handily pried open a number of wallets to join in on the antics of the auction.  "It is for the students after all!" he interjected whenever the pace slowed.

As guest of honour, Ron Eade was pleased with how the evening went, "It was really quite a success, and I'm delighted to play a small role in the success of future Algonquin culinary students."

"The intent of this bursary is to assist a culinary student after the first semester who has demonstrated a commitment to the craft and plans to pursue career development in the culinary arts. It is not just about academic excellence, because not every great chef of tomorrow may be academically inclined today. Rather, it’s about passion and determination to succeed, two hallmarks of distinction that denote excellence in any field."

Ron was quick to emphasize, "Let me assure you, those with passion and commitment stand out from the pack every time.  Those are among the people I want to encourage."

Well said. Mission accomplished.

Ron Eade looks on intently as Algonquin College culinary student, Jennesa Compton listens to instruction from Chef Bob Gelinas. Photo Credit: Anne Waters

 *** Direct donations are still being accepted through CanadaHelps.org (tax receipt for full amount) ***

Creamy Coleslaw With A Kick

Some people like their coleslaw with oil and vinegar dressing. Some prefer creamy.  We swing both ways.  Our creamy coleslaw dressing has evolved and now it has an extra 'kick'.

I have faithfully been following the directions for Bobby Flay's Creamy Coleslaw Dressing to a tee. Over time though the formula has been shifting to adjust to our own tastes in seasonings and also to deal with substitutions when our pantry has been lacking. Our latest concoction is worthy of repeating.

For the base of my slaw I shred one head of green cabbage and part of a red.  Sometimes as much as half, depending on the size.  The carrots are also size dependent, but usually I grate two or three.  Let your colour sense dictate your blend.  I find the proportions are more about looks than taste. Some think of cabbage as peasant food so I do like it to be a snappy dresser.

How has my latest dressing varied from the original by Bobby Flay?

I have upped the mayonnaise and sour cream to make sure there is enough dressing. Partly because the volume of slaw has increased from adding the red cabbage. And cabbage head sizes can be so unpredictable. I now add celery seeds and less celery salt.  The vinegar is less, as is the sugar.

The latest big change - dry mustard has been reduced to make room for the kick of horseradish. Truth be told, we ran out of dry mustard. The horseradish idea seemed like a stroke of brilliance.  The darling son's idea.  I take no credit. My observation - aversion to last minute grocery store runs can be the mother of invention.

I put the pre-dressed slaw together and store in a Ziploc bag with all the air removed.  I only dress as much slaw as I am using in a serving to keep it crisp. Coleslaw is a wonderful side dish for ham or pork of any kind. Terrific as a picnic food. I like it just as a midday snack.

What makes your creamy coleslaw dressing pack the punch?

Anne and Bobby's Creamy Coleslaw Dressing
Inspired by Bobby Flay, Food Network

1 1/4 cup mayonnaise
3 tablespoons sour cream
1 1/2 tablespoons white vinegar
2 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons celery salt
3/4 teaspoon celery seeds
2 tablespoons minced onion
1 teaspoon horseradish
2 teaspoons dry mustard

Combine all the ingredients together and adjust to taste.  The dressing can keep chilled in the fridge for a few days.

LCBO Food & Drink Magazine - Spring Issue 2013

As the snow flurries danced Fantasia-style this afternoon, I was more than ready to find warmth between the pages of the latest LCBO Food & Drink magazine - their Spring issue. It actually came out March 6, but me with my globetrotting life missed being in the province that day. Home a week later, I went right from the airport to the liquor store and came up empty-handed.  Not surprised, really. They go like hotcakes.

My game plan was to raid an issue from any old friend's powder room.  That's your trick too when you miss one, isn't it? But as good fortune would have it, Easter Bunnies galore had magazines to offer me the last few days. I accepted only one.

How sweet to see Ruth Gangbar as Kat Tancock's Trendspotting highlight on page 32.  Ruth Gangbar, well-known food stylist, is branching out with her new endeavour FoodographyPEC - workshops being presented in The County for those wanting to learn learn about food styling and food photography.  Ruth's team has conducted two workshops so far and the third is planned for mid-July. 

Watching Ruth work, you see how intuitively she approaches the set, mixing textures, colour and light.  She pushes for authentic.  No mashed potatoes subbing in for ice cream. It has to be the real deal.  She uses extra tricks though to keep the food looking fresh and sizzling. The magic tools in her massive traveling kit are eclectic. I'm sure airport security would have a fit if she ever took that bag as carry-on. Congrats Ruth and all the best with FoodographyPEC!

You should see how deep the snow is still on my front lawn. I am having a bit of a hard time imagining morels, spring onions and rhubarb springing from the ground before the next Food & Drink issue crosses my threshold. But a girl can dream, can't she?

My Spring-y tastes:

• Cantonese Lemon Chicken (From Perfect Pairings by Heather Trim and James Chatto) 
• Goat Cheese, Garlic & Morel Quiche and Warm Morel, Leek & New Potato Salad and Crab & Chorizo-Stuffed Morels With Garlic Butter (From Morels by Christopher St. Onge)
• Piri Piri Crab Cakes with Lime Mayonnaise (From Riesling Rising by Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic and Michael Fagan)
• Tortello alla Trattoria Monti (From Roman Holiday by Lucy Waverman)
• Buttermilk Pancakes with Salted Maple Cream (From Morning Glories by Jennifer MacKenzie) 
• Shrimp Dumplings in Herbed Broth and Yellow Pepper Minestrone with White Beans & Asparagus and Spring Onion Soup with Blue Cheese Toasts (From Soups For Spring by Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic) 
• Chilorio Taco (From Lucy's California Restaurant Tour by Lucy Waverman)
• Lobster-filled Arepas (From Top 5 To Taste by Julia Aitken)

Plan ahead: The Early Summer issue hits the stores in four weeks and two days on Wednesday, May 1st. 

Tarta de Santiago - My Gluten-Free Easter, Passover and Book Club Cake

Like many book club hosts, I fuss about the food.  As life would have it, this past Tuesday's meeting was no exception.  We are morning bookworms.  Well, truth be told the last of the special ladies left somewhere around 3 pm.  Our only rule for hosting is that there needs to be good strong coffee, decaf for a select few and a pot of hot water for our one teabag carrying, baby pinky pointer.  I, like the rest, do more.  It's a labour of love for sure.

In these times of great indulgence, I try to keep the main choices satisfying but not too heavy.  The fruit salad is a staple starter.  I thought an egg protein dish sans crust could keep our brains firing with thoughtful dialogue.  As our appetites waned, a light cake can be the great finisher.

Wanting a hint of Easter, I found a flourless Almond Cake, subtitled as Tarta de Santiago and adorned with a stenciled cross.  I knew nothing of its pedigree or history.  It turns out the Tarta de Santiago has deep roots in the food culture of Northern Spain.  My ignorance.  It was the picture that drew me in and I liked the cake's simple decoration.  It was Holy Week after all.  In hindsight my quick choice was quite shallow as it may be more of a Passover cake. As luck would have it, I made a fine pick.

It wasn't until after the meeting that I found the time to read more about the Tarta de Santiago and the many, many recipe choices out on the Internet.  Many of them in other languages.  I was pleased to find that from a culinary perspective, the recipe I chose for my inspiration was the one I would have chosen anyway had I put in all those hours beforehand pouring over recipes in order to make the perfect choice.

Why did I like this recipe best?

• It is a light cake in texture, where others are very dense.  This is partly due to separating the eggs and incorporating the sugar and flavourings with the yokes first.  Then the ground almonds are added and most importantly, the stiffened egg whites are folded in gently. I chose to fold in the whites in 4 batches.
• This recipe has less sugar than others.  I also cut back on what was recommended.  With flavourings like zests of orange and lemon, plus almond extract, these scents carry their own nectar.
• It uses no butter.
• It is gluten-free, as this version uses no flour. (When greasing the pan, I dust with powdered sugar.)
• It has a beautiful form.  Since it is a sponge cake, the top stays flat and the side are straight.
• It is approximately 155 calories a slice.  Which by cake standards is nothing short of an Easter miracle.

As for it's history and naming, here are some interesting notes.

• The cake's origins are Galician.
• It was named for Spain's patron saint, Saint James. Hence Santiago. (I had my wits about me enough to use the Cross of Saint James, like most everyone else, for the stenciled pattern on the top of the cake.)
• During the Middle Ages, the pilgrimage to the city of Santiago de Compostela, Galicia was considered the most important pilgrimage for Christians.
• Claudia Roden, author of The Food of Spain, believes that the tarta evolved from a Passover cake brought to Galicia by Jews fleeing Andalusia in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. 
• This cake is very popular and sold all over Santiago de Compostela.  Even more so on Saint James Day on July 25.
• In 2006, Spain filed an application to register the name Tarta de Santiago on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs.  In 2010 it was approved.

Tarta de Santiago (Almond Cake or Saint James' Cake)
Adapted from Claudia Roden, author of  The Food of Spain
Sourced from Epicurious.com
Serves as many as 16 slices

INGREDIENTS
250 grams ground almonds
6  large eggs, separated
150 grams superfine sugar
35 grams powdered sugar
5 ml lemon zest
5 ml orange zest
5 ml pure almond extract
Powdered sugar for dusting

METHOD:
Preheat oven to 350ºF.  Grease a 24-cm springform pan lightly with butter, then dust with powdered sugar.

Beat egg yolks, gradually adding the two sugars until a very pale yellow, almost white in colour.  It will be very stiff.  Make sure to scrape down the sides regularly. Beat in the zests and extract. Stir in the ground almonds. (I prefer to use whole blanched almonds and grind them myself in the food processor. I would not use Marcona Almonds. Do not use roasted almonds.  They need to be raw and preferably skinned.)

With very clean beaters, whip the egg whites until stiff.  Fold about 1/4 of the egg whites into the almond mixture. Make sure it is well mixed. Continue with the next 1/4 of egg whites.  You will find it much easier to fold in gently with each 1/4. Try to fold as gently as possible.

Pour batter into the prepared pan and bake for 40 minutes.  The cake should come away from the pan a bit.  The cake will be a golden brown.  It will spring back to the touch.

Cool on a cake rake before removing the springform ring.  Just before serving, dust the cake with powdered sugar, using a stencil of the Cross of Saint James for decorating.  Remove cake from cake bottom, using a sharp dinner knife or long offset spatula to loosen.  Place gently on a bake stand. Use kitchen tweezers to remove the stencil.

Supporting Tomorrow's Chefs Today: On-line Auction Now Open For Ron Eade Culinary Bursary

The special eBay auction site is now open in support of Algonquin College's Ron Eade Culinary Bursary. Get in on the fun and support a great cause. 39 spectacular auction items await you.

The Algonquin College School of Hospitality and Tourism is launching the bursary with a student-led fundraising dinner this Thursday, March 21.

Event co-ordinators, Scott Warrick and Mario Ramsay, both chef professors at Algonquin College, couldn't be more pleased with how Ottawa has responded to support the launch.

First, the good news of so many impressive auction items pouring in. Then, the dinner tickets sold out quickly. An added bonus has been the generousity shown by those who have chosen to give direct donations to the bursary.

Warrick told me today, "The investment in the bursary thus far means it is already financially viable and ready to go."

Although the dinner is sold out, Warrick and Ramsay have arranged for the auction items to be available to all through a special eBay auction site. The auction will remain open for bids until this Thursday, March 21 at 9:00 pm edt.

To shop, those at the dinner will be placing their bids on the eBay site too. That evening MC Derick Fage of Rogers Daytime Ottawa, will be getting the dinner guests in the dining room whipped into a spending frenzy and you can compete along side them.

It is as easy as 1-2-3, to start shopping today.  If you have an eBay account already, just sign in.  If not, the registration sign-up is straightforward.  Even if your strategy is to play big on the night of the event, make sure your account is set up and ready to go now. Though, you might enjoy some practise bidding beforehand!

I for one have bookmarked this special site (http://stores.ebay.ca/Ron-Eade-Culinary-Bursary-Auction), as well as installed the eBay app on my smartphone. Some of my bids are already in.

For those attending the event and not 'packing' technology, a bank of computers will be available so you can keep shopping throughout the evening.

A number of well-known graduates of the culinary programs at Algonquin College have thrown their support behind the event.  When you check out the auction items their generousity looms large.  Look for the names Michael Moffatt,  John Leung, Walid El-Tawel, Katie Brown Ardington, Patricia Larkin and Anna March to name a few.

The bigger ticket items of special chef dinners in your home are real crowd-pleasers.  I confess to having a personal history of seeking out these types of auction items.  They are ideal for celebrating a very special occasion with close friends and family.  We have even teamed up with other couples to win ourselves a night to remember. Maybe this time it will be your turn.

One of the chef dinners being much talked about includes graduates Patricia Larkin, Chef at Black Cat Bistro, Anna March, Resident Chef at Urban Element, and Katie Brown Ardington Chef de Cuisine at Beckta.  To create an out-of-this-world dining experience, they will team with Pascale Berthiaume of Pascale's All Natural Ice Cream and Marysol Foucault, owner/chef of both Edgar and Odile.

One graduate who is in full support of the event is Patricia Larkin, Chef at Black Cat Bistro.

Patricia Larkin, Chef at Black Cat Bistro. Photo Credit: roneade.com.

I spoke with Chef Larkin recently. Lucky for us that she chose to follow her passion.  She told me that she almost missed her calling.  

"I was taking early childhood education in 2000 and knew I would rather be cooking. But I just couldn't get over the idea of wearing those checkered pants! After a year of walking past the culinary wing, wishing I was in there, I bit the bullet, bought the checkered pants and enrolled in culinary management from 2001-2003."

This bursary means a lot to the students coming through the culinary program. Extra financial support  can make a difference to stemming the tide of the mounting costs for post secondary schooling. Larkin shares her insights.  

"The money would of course be helpful for all the extras that the program requires such as uniforms, knives, tools and books. Also, because the culinary field has become so popular in the last 10 years I suspect more and more students are coming from out of town, which makes cost of living quite expensive for a student. This bursary will give a hard working student the confidence and support to succeed through the program and start their career."

Is Larkin glad she made the program switch from early childhood education to culinary management?  She sure is.  

"I had a very good experience in the culinary management program at Algonquin.I learned a lot and I enjoyed being there. It is what set me up for the career I have now. With a push from Chef/Professor Mario Ramsay, I applied to work at the Fairmont Hotel in Jasper, Alberta after college. I stayed for 2.5 years and came back to Ottawa with more skills and a thicker skin - two things you need in the kitchen."

Asked why we should support the establishment of this bursary, Larkin says,  

"For one, it is a great way to honour Ron Eade's career and all he has done for the culinary field in Ottawa. Also, this bursary is going to not only financially help but also inspire and give confidence to a culinary student on the same path that I took 10 years ago. That support will go a long way."

Do we want a few more Chef Larkins in our kitchens here in Ottawa?  You bet we do.  Here is your chance to make a difference for tomorrow's chefs today. Participate in the eBay auction. Start your bidding.  Bid big and bid often.

NOW ON YOUR RADAR SCREEN

• Setup (or dust off) your eBay account. (Dinner guests that are a bit technology shy can get assistance Thursday evening.)
• If you have a smartphone or iPad, download the eBay app for table side mobile shopping.
• Check out out the eBay auction website before Thursday's dinner and start bidding.
• Not a shopper? Consider a direct donation to the bursary at CanadaHelps.org. [Full tax receipt issued.]
• Dinner guests: Prep your party clothes - Reception starts 5:30 pm. Dinner at 6:30 pm. The Restaurant International at Algonquin College, 1385 Woodroffe Avenue, Ottawa
• More information on the College’s event website

A Birthday Lunch That Celebrated Life

Our book club gals gathered today for a celebratory birthday.  We have no particular protocol in our informal constitution (there is no constitution) on how such events should unfold.  Sometimes a milestone year is a grand affair. Sometimes it commands a lunch out.  Sometimes it is a cake at a regular meeting and sometimes it is nary a whisper.  We are pretty free wheeling that way.

When we do congregate in the name of birthday milestones, it can often be just a side show to the whole outing. Our time together becomes more about sharing all of our lives.  The wonderful triumphs and crushing defeats.  Today we talked more about death than candles. For this group it is the topic du jour. Two had just lost fathers in the past week.  My uncle died just days ago.  Others had passings that they also wanted to share. We are at that age I guess.

Two blog posts I read recently resonated with me today as we confided and comforted each other at our not so birthday-ish lunch.

The first post is one I actually read often as a way of keeping my keel even when I know I need a reminder to stay caring, thoughtful and giving.  I hope you will enjoy it too.  It is by Darren Poke and is called Always Take The High Road.

The second post fresh off the press from Doris Belland is called What Do You Say And Do When Someone Dies?  I appreciated Doris' reminder "Food first, flowers later".

In some ways we are a disparate group with differences spanning age, religion, politics, means, family experiences, and hobbies.  Even our interest in books can be quite diverse. After 13 years together, despite our many differences, I continue to be reminded that I belong to a special group.

Again I came away refreshed and renewed. These outings force me to slow down, let time stand still and just take it all in. It is my chance to rebalance priorities and put people first. To quote the birthday girl, "Life is rich, and enriched with good friends.  Death is a poignant reminder of our transience on this planet."

Yes, in the glowing warmth of the tall, waxy candles, perhaps we did call it a birthday cake.  But in fact, it was a "life" cake.  Today we celebrated life.

“our life is a journey, and if we stop, things don’t go well.” - Pope Francis I

Chef Duo From SAT's Foodlab Import Quebec Terroir "Temps des Sucres" To Ottawa

Chef Michelle Marek handily torches the maple meringue on the maple cream crêpe cake.

I have a bi-polar relationship with multi-course, wine-matched dining out experiences.  Last night's Quebec Terroir "Temps des Sucres" at The Urban Element was no exception.

Shawna Wagman, Food Editor at Ottawa Magazine and our host for CITY BITES LIVE!

Shawna Wagman, Food Editor for Ottawa Magazine was hosting Montreal's Foodlab chefs Seth Gabrielse and Michelle Marek, both formerly from the kitchen of Montreal's bistro Laloux.

Chef Seth Gabrielse shares in the dessert plating.

Shawna's connection to the pair is through Michelle.  Their significant-others were in grad school together at McGill.  My connection to the pair is from dining out a few times at Laloux when they were at the helm. Michelle's cardamom panna cotta with carrot sorbet remains memorable.

Shawna started the soft sell on me back in early December with a hint and a Twitter tease.  The news was formally announced on her Ottawa Magazine blog at the end of January.

Then the dilemma began. Do I go? At $150 plus tax, it is a pricey evening out.  I have a bit of a value shopper bent and struggle to assess premium pricing when I want to indulge. The description was intimating to anyone's health with words like marinated in maple, burnt onion oil and meringue brûlée.

 

As chef Marek said last night regarding these multi-course dinners, "sometimes you feel like you are facing your death at the end of the meal". Truth be told, I am not much of a wine drinker either. Many pours will go unfinished. Oh what to do?

The sale for the 18 tickets seemed to move slowly.  I wondered who in this town was even aware of Gabrielse and Marek's top talents.  They left Laloux in late 2011 for SAT's Foodlab, a not-for-profit, artistic culinary adventure into food research. No kitchen, no phone, no equipment to start, not even water, they chose to see this as opportunity as opposed to adversity. Ego-centric chefs need not apply.

Maybe not celebrity rock star status yet - and I doubt that moniker is actually their ultimate mark of success -  this fledgling food lab is becoming well-known.

Their work is impressive enough to garner attention from the New York Times after just 9 short months at the lab.

TV crews have been all over them. Thankfully there will be an episode coming up where I finally will learn how to make Chef Marek's strudel as she visually will walk us through the method for her well-guarded recipe. Michelle took a shot at running cooking sessions only to find out it was not for her. Hopefully TV will be more her thing.

They are also being featured in an upcoming Bon Appetit Magazine.

Gabrielse and Marek's low key Ottawa profile was partly what pushed me into going last night.  I was hoping my dining confreres were there more out of food curiosity than the buzz that can go with coveting a private dinner with a more recognized name of a star-studded celebrity chef. I don't want to go to say "I was there" or "to be seen". Dining out for me is a quiet, personal affair.

So with a single ticket remaining unsold for days, on Monday, just 5 sleeps away, I moved the event to 'sold out' status. No regrets.

Seth's roots are Dutch and Michelle's are Czech.  To not be born and raised in La Belle Province, means their interpretation for Quebec Terroir "Temps des Sucres" would bring a less traditional perspective.

In the intro to the evening, the chefs were quick to dispel my concern for 'the end of evening hangover'.  They take meal pacing very seriously and feel that it is the responsibility of the kitchen to move you gracefully through the courses - not just your taste buds but also all our digestive and vital organs.  For the most part, they lived up to their promise. Although I thought the pork dish was a bit hefty. Its delicious, tender, maple flavour didn't stop me from finishing and near licking the plate.

Echine de porc marinated in maple and citrus juice with burnt onion oil, grilled green onions, jus, and white vegetable purée.

I gave my dessert a good college try but for me, pork followed by a big slab of goat cheese and then a carb bomb dessert with cream and sugar meant that I was done. Delicious but just too much. I didn't even touch the last pour, a Riesling.

Maple cream crêpe cake with maple meringue brûlée and apple sauce.

Knitted through the evening were fun food finds.

The bread on the table was from a new bakery at Montreal's Jean Talon Market called Joe La Croûte. Owner Daniel Jobin, studied specific techniques of kneading in the south of France with Benoît Fradette, formerly of Montreal's Le Fromentier.

Bread from Joe La Croûte in Montreal's Jean Talon Market.

Our oyster was garnished with heat packed Preservation Society's Caesar Celery.  Montreal-based Preservation Society is known for their small batch preserves.

Whalesbone oysters with Preservation Society's pickled Caesar Celery.

Many star ingredients came from Société-Orignal, a Montreal-based 'rare foods' company.  The cold-pressed sunflower oil and the Balconville vinaigrette on the salad and cheese plate were but a few.

Rye berry salad with roasted squash, kale, shallots, and Balconville vinaigrette.

Fresh Quebec chèvre with Boston lettuce, mixed greens, oat cakes and cold-pressed sunflower oil and espelette.

Société-Orignal is not just a distributor.  They work actively with purveyors to create best of breed products - the sunflower oil coming from a specific stand of plants with maximized sun exposure; the maple syrup developed from a specific part of the woodlot vs. a blend of the farm's full acreage of trees.

Chris Nuttall-Smith describes them better in his October 2012 Globe and Mail article, "Yet the most interesting thing about the venture is how promising its model is for the future of small but innovative family farms. Rather than peddling the usual commodity products, or the typical farmers’ market offerings, Société-Orignal focuses on unique, unknown and under-appreciated foods, and then finds them high-value markets. The appetite for this sort of product, the company is discovering, is limitless so far."  I think we need to keep an eye out for that name.

Lucky for Société-Orignal to be moving into Williams-Sonoma stores, remaining under their label. But maybe not so lucky for us.  I have to wonder when specialized products go nationwide with a chain, how does one preserve their identity around specialized and rare foods, while still maintaining the original standard of high quality.

I even learned a food tip for myself. Seth said he poached his young ramp leaves, laid them flat to freeze and then carefully wrapped them to store. A trick I will try come May when they are in season.  His pickled ramps are based on Tom Collicchio's pickled ramp recipe.  Both leaves and pickles were featured in the seafood dish.

Black bass with ramp royale, ramp leaves, pickled ramps and radishes.

The Urban Element team, including house chef Anna March, did a great job of supporting Shawna and guest chefs with the pace and logistics of the evening.  Their pairings for the meal were Norman Hardie wines from Prince Edward County. Our meal, save dessert, was served at the long communal table.  Place cards were laid out for direction. Full credit for somehow knowing my left-handedness and seating me at the right side of the head, allowing for plenty of wing space as I lifted my fork.

Of course the food was exceptional.  But I think what I enjoyed most of all was the chance to converse with others who also share a genuine love of food. I barely left the table to check our guest chefs in action. When it came time for the Q&A, my list for the chefs was too long.  We didn't even touch a favourite topic of mine - food styling. After all we eat with our eyes. So there in lies some more of that bi-polar feeling.  I come for the tastes and wizardry in the kitchen and I leave reminiscing about the conversation and good company.

Foodlab SAT (Labo Culinaire) is located at 1201, boulevard St. Laurent on the less than posh side of town in Montreal.  They do dinner service Tuesday to Friday from 5 - 10 pm.  Their menus are themed and change typically in two week rotations. Call ahead for reservations 514-844-2033 ext. 225.